Will Demi-permanent darken my hair? (2023)

Can you go darker with Demi-permanent?

Demi-permanent hair dye won't lighten your hair, as it doesn't contain hydrogen peroxide or bleach in its formula. This means it isn't the right pick for those trying to adopt a lighter hair color. On the flip side, if you want to go darker, demi-permanent hair dye is a great option!

Demi-permanent colour is in between a semi-permanent and permanent hair dye. Typically, this type of dye can last anywhere from 12 to 24 washes before completely washing out. Demi-permanent dye lasts longer because it has a small amount of peroxide incorporated to open the outer layer of the hair.

Demi color enters the first layer of the hair strand allowing the color to blend gray slightly, but maximum gray coverage is found with permanent hair color. Demi-permanent hair color will fade and typically last 12 to 24 shampoos.

What is demi-permanent color? Demi-permanent color contains no ammonia and deposits only. It is mixed with a low-volume developer to help open the cuticle and lasts up to 24 shampoos. This type of color is great for blending gray, enhancing natural color, refreshing color, toning highlights, or for corrective work.

You will have to dye your hair at least a level 3 for semi-permanent color to visibly show up.

A hair toner is a demi-permanent haircolor that can alter the state of the hair's color and pH level, says Redken Artist Cody Mittendorf. Colorists use it to help cool down or warm up the exact shade of your hair when you leave the salon.

Demi–permanent hair color is ammonia-free. That means that when you color, the molecules get under the outer cuticle of the hair shaft but don't penetrate the strand. Instead, demi-permanent color formulas wrap around the hair's cuticle, essentially creating a coat of color that's gradually washed away.

Demi-permanent is the best choice – and the least damaging one – if you're looking for a temporary hair color change or to shift your tone from cool to warm or vice-versa.

Creating highlights with demi-permanent color is often considered the lower-maintenance option because it can require less-frequent trips to the salon. Because the color fades more quickly than permanent color, your hair's new growth will typically blend more easily and naturally with the faded demi-permanent color.

Since the cuticle isn't being raised, the color will lay on the shaft rather than reach its cortex (center) making the result wash away after an average of 24 shampoos. This makes demi-permanent colors a much gentler option, but also means they cannot lift the color and make it lighter.

How often can I reapply a demi-permanent hair color?

Demi-permanent dye will last up to 20 washes. “This is a low-level peroxide dye and should be done every 6 to 8 weeks,” Mitchell says.

Standard processing time is 10-40 minutes at room temperature and 10-15 minutes with heat. After processing, rinse hair thoroughly until the water runs clear. Shampoo and style as desired.

To keep your new hair color vivid and bright, we advise that you wash your hair with cold water (as cold as is bearable). Cold water keeps the hair cuticles closed and therefore stops the color running out and fading too soon. Warm water is the enemy!

Both dyes are suitable for use on all hair types, but “usually semi-permanent color is used as a toner, or overlay on top of previously lightened hair,” and demi-permanent dyes “can only be your color or darker as they are deposit only and do not lift or lighten.”

“I generally tell my clients to wait 48 hours before they wash their hair,” VanDyke says. During the first 48 hours after a color service, the pigments of the salon color are still settling—meaning if you shampoo your hair too soon after an appointment, it can cause your hue to fade quicker.

“Demi-permanent colors don't cover the gray so much as they color it, making gray hairs blend in more with the overall color and look almost like a highlight,” explains Redken Artist Jason Gribbin. The big benefit to taking this route is less maintenance.

The most significant difference between semi and demi is permanency. Though both are temporary, demi lasts about 24 to 28 shampoos, and semi can last through about 3 to 6 washes.

Yes, demi-permanent hair dye may be a less harsher option compared to permanent hair dye, but that doesn't make it any less damaging. Demi-permanent hair color works by depositing its pigment through the hair cuticle and into the first layer of your hair.

You generally shouldn't shampoo immediately before coloring, because this will remove the natural oils that help protect your scalp during the coloring process. It's best to shampoo 12 - 24 hours before coloring when using semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair color. Shampoo 24 hours before using permanent color.

How can I extend my demi-permanent hair color?

The primary difference between semi- and demi-permanent hair color is how long they last after repeated washing and exposure to sunlight. Both methods are temporary compared to permanent hair color, with demi- lasting up to 30 washings, and semi- lasting about 5.

Demi-permanent dye will last up to 20 washes. “This is a low-level peroxide dye and should be done every 6 to 8 weeks,” Mitchell says.

Standard processing time is 10-40 minutes at room temperature and 10-15 minutes with heat. After processing, rinse hair thoroughly until the water runs clear. Shampoo and style as desired. To help keep color looking fresh and vibrant use Ion(TM) Shampoo and Conditioner for color treated hair.

Lasting around 10-12 washes, dependent on how porous your hair is, the colour molecules will sit on the cuticle of hair: in between the cuticle and cortex. A demi permanent shade sits between semi and permanent dyes and lasts around 20-24 washes.

Both dyes are suitable for use on all hair types, but “usually semi-permanent color is used as a toner, or overlay on top of previously lightened hair,” and demi-permanent dyes “can only be your color or darker as they are deposit only and do not lift or lighten.”

Demi-permanent color is great for anyone who wants a temporary color change, or for folks looking to enhance their current shade with a new tone. Plus, it's also great for people with less than 25% gray hair.